An East Coast friend was recently insisting that you just
cannot get a good Pinot Noir from California, that Oregon was “the” place for
it. In fact, he and his wife were planning a trip to Willamette Valley this
year to experience the lovely Pinots at the source, in the cascading hills
caressed by the cooling Pacific Ocean breezes. “Good for you,” was my response,
and I agreed that Oregon produces many magnificent Pinots. In fact, I recommended
he visit the Evening Land Vineyard (www.eveninglandvineyards.com),
where consulting winemaker Sashi Moorman works his magic.
But I gently admonished my friend, and informed him about
the beautiful, local (to me, anyway, in
Southern California) AVA called Santa Rita Hills, just 90 minutes north of Los
Angeles, which is producing some of the loveliest, most nuanced, and most drinkable
Pinots – and Chardonnays – I’ve had the
pleasure of tasting.
the beautiful, local (to me, anyway, in
Southern California) AVA called Santa Rita Hills, just 90 minutes north of Los
Angeles, which is producing some of the loveliest, most nuanced, and most drinkable
Pinots – and Chardonnays – I’ve had the
pleasure of tasting.
My local wine retailer, The Wine House (www.winehouse.com) this week hosted a “focused
tasting of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA” featuring 29 wineries and 58 wines, produced
from grapes grown in the AVA. It was almost overwhelming for me, as I can for
the first time ever say that there was not one sip of wine at this event that I
did not like. The hardest decision I had to make all night was which wines to
purchase.
tasting of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA” featuring 29 wineries and 58 wines, produced
from grapes grown in the AVA. It was almost overwhelming for me, as I can for
the first time ever say that there was not one sip of wine at this event that I
did not like. The hardest decision I had to make all night was which wines to
purchase.
Established officially as Sta. Rita Hills AVA in 2001 (note
that the abbreviated spelling is in deference to the Chilean producer Santa
Rita) is situated in the cooler hills of Santa Barbara county, just east of the
sprawling and warmer Santa Ynez Valley. Just about 6 miles from the Pacific
Ocean, the area benefits from the eastward jag of the coastline and the west-to-east
running hills, which allow coastal fog and wind into the area. The fog lingers
from late afternoon to early morning, and then burns off, creating a
combination of warms days and cool nights, which is perfect weather for Pinot
and Chardonnay. Additionally, a wide variety
of soils – clay, sand, silt, slate – provides conditions that have been
described as Burgundian, adding intense minerality to the wines.
that the abbreviated spelling is in deference to the Chilean producer Santa
Rita) is situated in the cooler hills of Santa Barbara county, just east of the
sprawling and warmer Santa Ynez Valley. Just about 6 miles from the Pacific
Ocean, the area benefits from the eastward jag of the coastline and the west-to-east
running hills, which allow coastal fog and wind into the area. The fog lingers
from late afternoon to early morning, and then burns off, creating a
combination of warms days and cool nights, which is perfect weather for Pinot
and Chardonnay. Additionally, a wide variety
of soils – clay, sand, silt, slate – provides conditions that have been
described as Burgundian, adding intense minerality to the wines.
The weather and soil conditions also produce grapes with
nice acidity – a key to any good wine. So, in addition to Pinot and Chardonnay,
you will find Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer – varietals known
for their high acidity – as well as Grenache.
nice acidity – a key to any good wine. So, in addition to Pinot and Chardonnay,
you will find Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer – varietals known
for their high acidity – as well as Grenache.
The big-flavor wines that typified the AVA in the early
2000s are giving way to much more refined, mineral- and “terroir-“driven”
examples. Several vintners at the Wine House event had two versions of their
Pinot Noirs, from two different “micro-lots” (patches of earth) in the Hills,
and the comparison was quite interesting. For instance, Transcendence’s (www.transcendwines.com)
Joey Gummere had tastes of his 2012 ‘F’ Street
Pinot alongside his 2012 Encantada Pinot. The former ($34.99) had a beautiful fruit
on both the nose and palate, while the latter ($44.99) was all about the
minerals. Delicious in both cases.
2000s are giving way to much more refined, mineral- and “terroir-“driven”
examples. Several vintners at the Wine House event had two versions of their
Pinot Noirs, from two different “micro-lots” (patches of earth) in the Hills,
and the comparison was quite interesting. For instance, Transcendence’s (www.transcendwines.com)
Joey Gummere had tastes of his 2012 ‘F’ Street
Pinot alongside his 2012 Encantada Pinot. The former ($34.99) had a beautiful fruit
on both the nose and palate, while the latter ($44.99) was all about the
minerals. Delicious in both cases.
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Richard Longoria of Longoria
Wine (www.longoriawine.com) has
been making wine since 1982, long before the area achieved AVA status. His two
Pinots were the 2012 Lovely Rita ($29.99) and the 2011 Fe Ciega ($46.99).
Lovely Rita had the classic Pinot aroma and taste of sour cherry as well as
some spices, while the Fe Ciega offered much more, as it “is one of the most
elegant, refined vintages of Fe Ciega we have produced,” per Longoria.
Wine (www.longoriawine.com) has
been making wine since 1982, long before the area achieved AVA status. His two
Pinots were the 2012 Lovely Rita ($29.99) and the 2011 Fe Ciega ($46.99).
Lovely Rita had the classic Pinot aroma and taste of sour cherry as well as
some spices, while the Fe Ciega offered much more, as it “is one of the most
elegant, refined vintages of Fe Ciega we have produced,” per Longoria.
Other notable Pinots included Montemar (www.montemarwines.com)
2011 La Encantada ($49.99) and Rio Vista ($44.99); 2012 Wan Fiore Project Pinot
Noir ($45.99); Pali Wine Co. (www.paliwineco.com) 2011 Pinot Noir “Fiddlestix” ($53.99); Lindley 2011 and 2012 La Lomita Vineyard
(both $54.99); and Kitá
2011 Pinot Noir Hillard Bruce (www.kitawines.com,
($59.99). (Kitá is a
Chumash Indian word meaning “Our Valley Oak,” and winemaker Tara Gomez is a
member of the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians, who provided a scholarship to
help her study enology at UC Fresno.)
2011 La Encantada ($49.99) and Rio Vista ($44.99); 2012 Wan Fiore Project Pinot
Noir ($45.99); Pali Wine Co. (www.paliwineco.com) 2011 Pinot Noir “Fiddlestix” ($53.99); Lindley 2011 and 2012 La Lomita Vineyard
(both $54.99); and Kitá
2011 Pinot Noir Hillard Bruce (www.kitawines.com,
($59.99). (Kitá is a
Chumash Indian word meaning “Our Valley Oak,” and winemaker Tara Gomez is a
member of the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians, who provided a scholarship to
help her study enology at UC Fresno.)
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A few Chardonnays were also notable, including the 2012 Lafond (a bargain at $21.99). This was
oaked, but not too much, with good minerality and acidity. The Crawford Family 2012 Chardonnay Tin Shack ($41.99) is stainless steel aged,
with nice acid and minerality, and a touch of grapefruit on the palate.
oaked, but not too much, with good minerality and acidity. The Crawford Family 2012 Chardonnay Tin Shack ($41.99) is stainless steel aged,
with nice acid and minerality, and a touch of grapefruit on the palate.
Many of the Sta. Rita Hills producers have tasting rooms
located in Lompoc, Los Olivos, and downtown Santa Barbara. The “Lompoc Wine Ghetto” (that’s pronounced “lom-poke” I
was told several times during the event!) set up in an industrial park on the
east side of town, has become the in spot for tasting rooms, so don’t just pass
through this town on your way to and from the tonier spots in the Santa Ynez
Valley. Stop, and enjoy a few tastes.
located in Lompoc, Los Olivos, and downtown Santa Barbara. The “Lompoc Wine Ghetto” (that’s pronounced “lom-poke” I
was told several times during the event!) set up in an industrial park on the
east side of town, has become the in spot for tasting rooms, so don’t just pass
through this town on your way to and from the tonier spots in the Santa Ynez
Valley. Stop, and enjoy a few tastes.
Until next time, Cheers!